Pura Vida

(unedited first draft)

I've done a little traveling, not enough to call myself a world traveler, but enough to say with great certainty that the people of Costa Rica are some of the most humble, kind and generous people in the world.  Pura Vida. They live the pure life and after visiting just a small stretch of their country, I feel lazy, greedy and guilty of taking the beautiful simplicities of life and turning them into worries.  

It only took a few minutes to secure our reservation online, only to research and learn later that my "vacation" was going to involve tackling some of the most dangerous rapids in the world.  I was sucked into the beauty of the lodge, the country, the rain forest and the desire to see some exotic creatures.  I didn't really read the fine print.  I knew our lodge was accessible by raft, but because I have virtually no rafting experience, the "Class IV" rating meant nothing to me.  I love adventure though and it sounded fun enough.  Later I would Google "Pacuare" and I would see links such as "The Pacuare: River of death" or "deaths on the Pacuare",  I did not click on these links.  I did however read more reviews of our lodge and travel company.  Everyone, even the inexperienced rafters loved the rafting and everyone who wrote the reviews (I can only assume) survived.  Everyone commented on the expertise of the guides and how safe they were made to feel.  Some people mentioned falling out of the raft, once, twice or multiple times.  Some people mentioned that the rainy season was far more dangerous due to the speed of the water.  Rainy season, that was when our trip was booked for.  Hot diggity damn.  For you rafters, it's unlikely you can relate to my apprehension, but I am NOT physically gifted in the least.  I am a faller outer.  I am a rule follower until panic hits and I forget all the rules.  I am the one who will forget 2 simple rules-float on your back, feet downstream.  I am a drowner.  However, I am fun, really I am!  I won't be discouraged, I turn discomfort into self deprecating humor and I refuse to NOT have fun.  

Day one on the river, lots of rules.  "Forward"-simple enough, row forward & try to stay in sync with the paddler in front of you.  "Backward"-same as forward, only not, it's the other way.  This is where it gets complicated for me.  Left back--that means the left side rows backward and the right keeps paddling forward.  Now I need to think.  I know my left from right, but under pressure, my mind is as uncoordinated as my body.  There is also "high right (or left)", and this is where it gets intimidating--if the raft is about to flip everyone on the left jumps to the right and holds on.  I didn't like this one.  And then there was "DOWN!"--jump into the middle of the boat, hunker down and hold on! ...and then there are all the rules for when you do fall out.  I didn't talk to anyone who said you won't fall out.  My gifted guide Mauricio said "I work hard to keep you safe", he also does shoe checks and if you fall for it, he himself will flip you out of the boat.  Thankfully, while my mind is slow with some things, my wit is quick and I usually "get it" if yours is too.  

My first day on the raft was too short.  The rapids get to maybe a class II, so we had a good opportunity to learn the ropes and hone our skills.  Not sure how I managed to go airborne on a class II but at one point I flew up and was quickly thrown face down into the boat by Chris who was determined to keep me in the boat so I wouldn't bail on the more difficult latter stretch of the trip.  I also think there was a little passive aggressiveness going on and he found it was a fine opportunity to suffocate me while feigning doting protection.  It took a little longer than necessary to release my face from the raft.  It was exciting though, and I was hooked, I wanted more river.  And then it was over, we were at the lodge, the amazing and beautiful Pacuare Lodge.  

Our days at the lodge were all I expected and more, the lodge is what made me brave the Pacuare during the rainy season, and could have easily been the highlight of the trip, and would have been if it weren't for the unexpected treasures encountered.  

The Pacuare is romantic and we met many Honeymooners, Chris made the point that there is always at least one weird couple on each vacation and if you don't recognize that in someone else, it's because it's probably you.  So we proudly wore the "weird" hat.  I mentioned earlier it's an Eco-Lodge.  This over-packer had one small backpack to fit 4 days worth of clothing and other essentials into, keeping in mind that nothing can be worn twice since the humidity allows for nothing to dry.  Most people were wet from swimming, I was wet from sweating.  It doesn't take long to get really stinky and any romance to be had is not without a ripe, raw stench.  Thankfully, our suite came with a small little spring fed dipping pool that was nice and cool and brisk.  Our suite also came with bats!  about 9 little bats who would loudly alert us when it was time for us to go down to dinner or in their case, their hunt.  When we were down at dinner, all of the candles in our room would be lit and we would return to a beautiful breeze-cooled, candle lit room.  The sounds of the jungle were loud.  The rushing Pacuare, the cicadas, the birds, the bats celebrating their successful hunts.  Surprisingly easy sounds to sleep to.  No worries.  

I've mentioned before that I don't do well walking uphill--I wasn't prepared for how much uphill walking I would be doing.  I hiked a mountain in order to zip line 13 different cables in the beautiful rainforest.  Of course, the locals (who walk miles to work and make complaining feel shameful), my strong, virile husband and the young fit honeymooners made it look effortless.  Me-I did a lot of huffing and puffing.   I tried to pretend I  sounded sexy by emulating sounds of passionate lovemaking when in reality, my sounds were exactly that of a chubby, unfit middle-aged American trying desperately to get up a hill.  Small victories though, I made it.  I made it and my later long walks up a steep hillside to my suite didn't feel all that bad anymore.  Zip lining was incredible and I am glad I waited to experience it for the first time in such a spectacular setting.  At the end we repelled down a tree, with a mischievous guide surprising me with a fun free fall at the end.

The highlight of our trip was a horseback riding trip to the small nearby village of Bajo Del Tigre.  We crossed the river on a cable and met our horses.  The riding was fun and again the scenery was amazing but it was the family we met in Bajo Del Tigre that made our trip.  It was just Chris and I and our 2 patient guides, we were greeted by 14 year old Martin who helped us dismount our horses and tie them up for us.  The family invited us in to wash up and to sit at their table while they served us some fresh juice, and a delicious brunch.  The patriarch played music and sang to us, and little Jimena (7 years old) stole my heart with her smiles and hugs.  The warmth of the family made me cry my first and only tears of my vacation and I was so sad to go and again ashamed that with all the luxuries back at home, the smiles in the US don't compare at all to the smiles in Costa Rica.  Pura Vida.  

The huge rains came after our horseback ride.  Rains unlike any I have ever experienced before.  The river was fairly low for rainy season.  It doesn't take long for the rains to change the level of the water, and a small part of me was again afraid that I would not survive the rapids home.  

The next morning the water was deeper and murkier but before I could find Mauricio and beg for reassurance, he found me.  He told me that the river was perfect.  Not too low and not too high and asked if I was ready.  I again asked him if I was going to fall out.  He reminded me "I work hard to keep you safe" and then he flashed me a smile confirming all of my fears "You might fall out".  

This is what I found googling Class IV rapids-

"Long rapids; waves high, irregular; dangerous rocks; boiling eddies; best passages difficult to scout; scouting mandatory first time; powerful and precise maneuvering required. Demands expert boatman and excellent boat and good quality equipment"

The "powerful and precise maneuvering" is executed by me.  Me, Chris and 4 new friends.  The "expert boatman" was Mauricio.  Thank God for Mauricio.  Mauricio meets new people everyday, all with differing levels of rafting experience.  Mauricio might remember me for a couple of days due to my neurosis and sad attempts at humor.  I will remember Mauricio forever.  He worked hard to keep me safe.  I am proud of myself though.  I also worked hard to keep me safe, I paddled while rushing water was thrashing at my raft and trying to knock me out.  I don't have anything to compare it to other than our first day on the river, but our final day on the river was intense, it was unlike anything I have ever encountered before and finishing it was followed by a euphoria and a feeling of victory I've never experienced.  There were several rapids along the way that were classified III's and IV's.  During one rapid, Mauricio had gained enough faith in us that he decided to have a little fun with us.  Those of us on the left paddled forward and those on the right turned around facing the back of the raft and also paddled forward through a long fairly intense rapid we spun ourselves in circles all the way until the water was again slow. Twice during the trip, 2 of my raft mates fell partially out of the boat (this is where Chris wants me to tell you all that he saved someone's life *sigh*), I stayed in though.  I thrashed around a lot and I am quite sure a bystander would not have viewed me as graceful but I stayed in the boat!  I ducked and clung to the boat when Mauricio called out "DOWN!" as we were completely enveloped by large waves, and I didn't get swept away.  At one point my own fist hit my lip and my tooth punctured and fattened it quickly, I can't say I am not proud of the battle wound though.  I stayed in the boat.  We all did!  

What I sought when booking my travel was an exotic getaway with my husband, what I left with I can't put into words (and I am wordy ;)).   The bad and the good- I am spoiled and materialistic, I am also brave and capable.  I didn't need a beautiful suite and fancy meals to feel refreshed, I needed to experience Pura Vida.  Muchos Gracias Costa Rica.  Te Amo.